Modeling the Propagation, Breaking and Drift of Ocean Surface Wave

Jin-Liang Wang

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arXiv · 1304.1463

Modeling the Propagation, Breaking and Drift of Ocean Surface Wave

Jin-Liang Wang

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Abstract

A new model other than the classical ones given by Airy, Stokes and Gerstner for the ocean surface wave is constructed. It leads to new understandings for the wave mechanisms: (1) A wave with bigger amplitude or smaller steepness travels faster; (2) The wave breaks when the front angle is bigger than 46.3 degree; (3) The magnitude of the wave drift should be smaller than that of the known Stokes drift.

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Jin-Liang Wang. 2017-05-15. Modeling the Propagation, Breaking and Drift of Ocean Surface Wave. https://arxiv.org/abs/1304.1463

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