Infra-gravity Waves and Cross-shore Transport -- A Conceptual Study

Abstract

Infra-gravity waves are generally known as small-amplitude waves of periods between 25 seconds and 5 minutes. They originate from the presence of wave groups in the open ocean waves and can move freely after being released near the surf zone where they can be further fueled with energy from the spatially varying break point of swell waves . As these waves approach the shore, the relative importance of the infra-gravity wave signal increases, and its impact on the shorter waves gets stronger. In addition, infra-gravity waves drive strong cross-shore currents, which lead to significant back-and-forth motion of the underlying sea water. This strong cross-shore motion has been made visible by recent field studies, where significant cross-shore movement was detected and found to be correlated with the infra-gravity wave signal. In the present work, the connection between infra-gravity waves is explored further using linear wave theory and an established numerical nearshore wave model (BOSZ). It is shown that in all cases, the presence of infra-gravity waves leads to strong cross-shore motion. This behavior can be understood by considering the infra-gravity waves as separate free waves, and then following the fluid particle trajectories excited by these waves. As it is shown, these trajectories have a very large horizontal extent which -- if not separated from the main gravity wave field -- appears as a large, but often not directly visible back-and-forth motion, underlying the more readily observable gravity ocean waves.